To the Orient and back

I am finally back at home after a week-long journey to Beijing and Guiyang City (贵阳市), the capital city of Guizhou Province (贵州省), the poorest province in China. It has been quite an experience for me to visit both cities because the two showcase very different faces of the rising nation in the midst of its peaceful development (和平发展).

Beijing has transformed much since my last sightseeing tour there some 13 years ago. It is now impressively modern. Everywhere, it is apparent that the city and its citizens are making all sorts of preparations for the 2008 Olympic Games. The various state-of-the-art sports complexes are in their final stages of construction, and even the nearby residential zone - aptly called the Olympic Village District (奥运村街道) - is also undergoing major upgrading of its public amenities. I visited the Residents' Committee of Anhuili Neighbourhood (安慧里社区) in Olympic Village District, and was impressed by how closely knit the local community was in terms of their volunteerism and collective social responsibility. For instance, they had set up their own grocery store where the richer residents could donate items for sale and where a portion of the profits goes towards helping the needy in the neighbourhood. They also have their own Neighbourhood Watch, where they even help to ensure that every household has at least installed some lock or alarm system to prevent break-ins by thieves.

13 years ago, I didn't think much of the Forbidden City (紫禁城) in Beijing, because the place was gray, dull and falling apart. But during my visit this time, I was presented with a vibrantly colourful Forbidden City, where even the worn-out road tiles have been replaced with brand-new ones. The heritage site is currently undergoing extensive restoration works to bring it back to its former grandeur and glory – in time for the expected influx of tourists coming to Beijing in conjunction with the 2008 Olympic Games. Much care has been taken to ensure that all the colours and materials used in the restoration will match exactly what was used during the original construction. Once all the restoration works are completed, I am sure the Forbidden City will look simply magnificent – just as it used to be in ancient times when it left hundreds of foreign emissaries speechless and awestruck by its sheer scale, fine craftsmanship and architectural beauty.

But my fondest memories are in Guiyang, where the air is refreshingly clean and the sights simply breathtaking. A largely hilly and rural province, Guizhou is also home to a large number of minority ethnic groups, each with its own distinctive culture, clothing, songs and dances. I had the opportunity to visit a Miao tribe (苗族) located in the hills of Nanhuazhai (南花寨) near Kaili City (凯里市), about 2.5 hours' drive east from Guiyang. The Miao people are extremely friendly and warm. As I walked up the hill, I was stopped every hundred metres or so by Miao ladies who waylaid me and made me drink from a bull's horn their special Miao brew of wine before I was allowed to pass. (By the way, the upslopes are great for hill-training in my opinion.) At the summit of the hill, around 20-30 fair-skinned Miao women and strapping young Miao lads presented a medley of traditional song and dance items. Though the entire performance was somewhat staged (to lure tourists!), the entire tribe – including children and the elderly – nevertheless turned up in full force in their traditional garb and participated in the dance of friendship to welcome all the foreign visitors like myself.

I also spent some time at Huangguoshu Waterfall (黄果树瀑布), which is to the southwest of Guiyang. It is the largest natural waterfall in China. While it was not as huge as I had expected, it was very scenic nevertheless and great for photography outings.

On the whole, my trip to China has been exhausting at times, but also very memorable. I have made some good pals during the journey, and here's a toast of Maotai wine (茅台酒) to everlasting friendship! :)